Towing your boat is not the fun part of using your boat, no matter how many times you do it. You check your mirrors, and then check them again and perhaps one more time to be sure. Your palms grip the wheel tighter than a ducks back pocket. You try to look calm, but the sweat beading on your brow threatens to give you away and your puckering and unpuckering like a member of the cast of The Batchelor. Your senses have become more acute you can hear the fish breathing 6 kilometres away. Wait what was that sound? Was that a clunk? Is that a vibration? Paranoia jumps into the seat next to you , your eyes continue to dart mirror, road, mirror, road.
Despite this almost without exception, trailers tend to be one of the last things people think about when buying an expensive boat. Don’t make this mistake.
What does a good boat trailer look like? Is price and brand name a fair consideration? Is local best or will a cheaper, imported one do?
When confirming your trailer’s suitability or when registering or insuring it, you will be confronted with a bunch of acronyms you’ll need to get your head around. Here are the most commonly used ones below:
VIN: Vehicle Identification Number.
GVM: Gross Vehicular Mass — the combined laden boat, motor and trailer weight.
GTM: Gross Trailer Mass — the combined laden boat, motor and trailer weight (unhitched).
ATM: Aggregate Trailer Mass — the combined laden boat, motor and trailer weight (hitched).
TARE: The total weight of the trailer itself.
ADR: Australian Design Rules — which govern the construction and compliance of your trailer.
Having a spare axle and a couple of extra boat trailer wheels is good insurance in the event of a puncture or blowout. Same deal if you’re going to be tackling rough terrain and rutted roads such as those commonly encountered in the outback, or local bush tracks. In this scenario, upgrading your suspension and maybe replacing the standard tyres with off-road ones are also valid considerations. Boat trailer brakes are another issue demanding your attention and are governed by strictly-enforced State legislation.
WHAT SIZE TRAILER DO I NEED FOR MY BOAT?
The following guidelines to boat trailer towing and load weights should serve as a guide, but be sure to check the statutory requirements with your local authorities.
Boat weight and length Best trailer
Aluminium boats and small lightweight fibreglass boats with a GTM (Gross Trailer Mass) below 750kg Unbraked single-axle trailer.
Alloy and fibreglass boats to around 5.5m and with a GTM below 2000kg mechanical brakes, single-axle trailer. (NB: Rigs with a GTM over 1500kg are generally better served by a tandem-axle trailer.)
Alloy and fibreglass boats 5.5m to 6.5m and with a GTM below 2000kg Mechanical brakes, tandem-axle trailer.
Alloy and fibreglass boats 6.0m to 8.0m and with a GTM 2000kg and above Break-away brakes, tandem axle, braked on all four wheels.
Triple-axle trailers Breakaway brakes, braked on wheels.
BEFORE YOU HEAD OFF
Before you drive off, check and re-check that your trailer is properly secured. I normally start at the front and do a 360 around the rig. My checklist reads as follows:
- Boat trailer winched snug.
- Ratchet and pawl (the little dog leg thingy with a spring on it) engaged.
- Safety chain on.
- Coupling-hitch down and clipped on (pop a clip on it to be doubly safe).
- Handbrake off.
- Safety chains shackled on.
- Trailer plug in.
- Jockey wheel up.
- Spare boat trailer wheel firm.
- Check wheels and bearing protectors (bearing protectors have a nasty habit of going AWOL).
- Tie down straps tight.
- Bungs in (yep, before you leave your driveway — trust me on this one).
- Check lights.
- If your trailer has electric brakes, you also need to ensure that your brake actuator is priming and functioning properly.
So there you have it. Everything you need to know about trailers.